Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
